Julie and Ross's Weekend in Kyoto - Day 2

So the day began in a great fashion - Ross and I went to Starbucks for breakfast (there was one in the Hotel) and drank Chai Lattes (I'm really into these!) and ate sandwiches and buns. This was the first time that we'd ever gone to Starbucks together, and it was lovely!

We then jumped on a bus (now getting good as sussing out the Kyoto transport- hey, after the Tokyo trains, we're invincible!), and headed to Kinkaku-ji ('The Golden Temple') - this is probably the most famous and well visited temple in Tokyo.

It was absolutely amazing! Apparently, the original building was built in 1397 as a retirement villa for Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu, and his son converted it into a temple. A young barking mad monk then decided it was his mission to raze it to the ground in 1950, and five years later it was rebuilt exactly to the original design, but with even more gold-foil covering.

The first two layers of the temple are covered in goil-foil, and this was redone a few years ago, even thicker!

It's amazing - it SOO shiny!

The lake is supposed to reflect the moon beautifully!

...we took quite a few pictures, but it was so pretty!

Here's not the best pic of Ross and I, but as we had to ask someone to take it for us, and therefore there aren't many of these, I decided to put it in!

...and a close up so you see really how shiny it was!

There were beautiful trees and gardens around it too

...and a lovely little waterfall

There was this strange statue thing where you threw money, so we took a pic!

...and in true Japanese fashion, you're given the path to follow, which everyone dutifuly does, which does means that you don't have to think too hard about which route to take!

So, this was our final glimpse of this beautiful temple

After the golden temple, we had found that there was a temple sale (sort of crossed between and antiques fayre and a festival) in a nearby temple - Kitamo-Tenman-Gu. We were rather templed out, so we didn't really look at the temple very much! The temple sales was huge - a mix of food stalls, games (like you'd get at a school fete!) second hand kimonos (some were beautiful) and antiques. We saw some statues in a similar style to our Lions, but nothing as nice (which pleased me!). It felt baking hot, and the prices were very inflated, so we didn't buy anything. We made a mental note to find out about more temple sales in Tokyo, and get some good souvenirs!

Continuing on our missions to 'do' Kyoto in 2 days, I really wanted to go to the place with the 'tunnel' of orange 'torii' (gates). Didn't really know much about it, but had seen in a few tourist pics (and it's in the film of the 'Memoirs of a Geisha' book!). So we worked out what it was called, and where it was, and hopped on a train to the 'Fushimi-inari-Taisha', a couple of stops out of Kyoto.

We didn't really know what to expect, as I'd just seen the 'classic' photo of the two orange tunnels next to one another...

...Here's the classic pic.

Apparently, this shrine was dedicated to the gods of rice and sake in the 8th Century. As the role of agricutlure diminsed, deities were enroled to ensure prosperity in business. Nowadays, this shrine is apparently one of Japan's most popular, and is the head shrine for some 30,000 Inari shrines throughout Japan. There, a bit of history from the guidebook!

The tunnels were bizarre - made of hundreds and thousands of the classic Japanese 'torii' (gates). They had writing on one side (but we had not one clue what it said!)

... all very cool!

The entire complex consists of five shrines sprawling across the wooded slopes of Inari-yama. There was path which wondered 4km (apparently) up the mountain, lined with hundres and hundreds of these red torii.

Here's a map showing (very basically!) the location of the torii.






There were also dozens of these stone foxes (some wearing these dashing little red pinnies!) The fox is considered the messenger of Inari - the god of cereal grains.

The key in his mouth is for the rice granary. It looked at bit like what one of our lions has in his mouth!

We walked for about 15 mins up the slope, through hundreds of Torii, seeing lots of foxes and little shrines, then read in the guide book that 'it is a pleasant day hike to follow the trail all round' so at this point we gave up - Julie was on a mission to fit in one more temple!

We had a very nice green-tea flavoured Mr. Whippy (actually it was quite nice, but on balance, Ross's chocolate one was nicer!)

So, on to the last temple of the day (much to Ross's chagrin!). I'd seen this iconic pic on the front of a couple of guide books and, as luck would have it, it wasn't far from the station.

So we caught the train back to the station, and then walked the 1km to this final temple - the Toji Temple.

This Pagoda is made entirely out of wood, and it the tallest pagoda in Japan - it has lightening conductors all over it in case of fire!

It was very pretty, and Ross did some good 'arty' shots!

...then there were some other templey bits with lots of interesting things in them. But to be honest, we were a bit bored by this stage, and wanted to catch the 4:30pm shinkansen!

So, temple done, we raced back to the station.

We had thought it felt very hot, and on the way back to the station, Ross spotted this building. You can't see it very clearly, but there's a red digital display showing the temperature - at 4:15pm in the afternoon, it was still 40 degrees! So it really was very hot!

All went to plan, we caught the 4:30pm Shinkansen back to Tokyo - here's a pic of the (according to Ross) 'very sexy' train.

We got safely back to Tokyo around 7pm. Tokyo seemed very very high-rise and neon compared with the more rural feel of Kyoto.

A great weekend all round. Would def recommend a visit to Kyoto to anyone who comes to visit us!

Ross and Julie's Weekend in Kyoto - Day 1

So, Ross and Julie's first weekend away together for over 10 years. We'd talked for years about getting rids of the kids for a weekend and going on a city break to Paris or Rome or somewhere, but we never dreamed our 'dirty weekend away' would be in Kyoto!

After an initial glitch when the travel agent told us that all the hotels in teh special deal were full, I called direct and had no problem in booking the tickets just a couple of days before we left.

We caught the 7:03am shinkansen (bullet train) out of Tokyo, and arrived 2 1/2 hours later in Kyoto (the shinkansen went very very fast and was really smooth!)

Kyoto has an amazing station building which was designed in some architect competition or other. It's beautiful (the downside

is that it's really difficult to find the tracks from the entrance, or the exit from the tracks, and we ended up schlepping through a department store to try to get out!

The tourist info's in the building so we picked up our bus route map and started exploring!

This is the atrium in the station building - it was huge!

...and there was an arial walkway which was 7 floors up, and afforded great views of the city.

This is the main street just by the station. You can go up this big 'Tokyo Tower' and get a good view of the city (but we're too stingy and got a good enough view from the station!)

We decided to start our tour with the 'Southern Higashiyama walking tour' recommended in the Lonely Planet guide. We caught a bus to the start, and off we went.

Kyoto is the 'cultural capital' of Japan - it felt a bit like Luxor in Egypt with lots and lots of 'interesting things' and loads of tourists in tour buses.

Because we'd gone in the Summer, there were not many tourists (it's really far too hot) The most popular times are April / May and Sept / Oct

The first temple we looked at was Kiyomizu-dera. Before going round the temple, we paid 100 yen to go into the 'womb' of the temple and rub a sacred stone - which was actually more fun than it sounds, because the 'womb' was pitch black, and you have to follow a rope around the wall to get to the stone, and then get out again!

The temple was built high on a hill with an amazing veranda. There were lots of Budhas and things.

Here's a sacred well which you're supposed to drink the water and heal your eternal soul. But it was 200 yen each so we decided that our souls were probably OK.

Within the grounds was a 'lurve temple' where you can pay yet another 300 yen to make a wish, or buy a wish pouch (bit of a money making theme here, we thought!) Ross walked the love walk between the love stones - if you can walk between the two stones with your eyes shut, then you'll find true love -

...unfortunately, he missed the end stone - but it didn't skupper our romantic weekend away!

Here's a pic of teh temple overlooking the mountain - you can see Kyoto in the background. It really was beautiful

Here's a close up of the sacred well, or waterfall.

We left the temple and headed down a beautiful old street, filled with lots of souvenir shops, called Kiyomizu-michi
. Kyoto is famed for its food, we weren't really interested in eating in a traditional restaurant, becuase we can do this through work. However, we did savour the local ice cream specialitiy - this is shaved ice, with green-tea syrup, and azuki-bean sweet jam - it sounds gross, but it was actually delicious, and very refreshing in teh heat.

Here's the next street we walked down - it really was charming. Sannen-zaka

...and here's a maiko (apprentise Geisha) on the street

Then we walked to this tiny little street full of traditional tea-houses and restaurants - Ishibei-koji - not much from the outside, but you could peep into these exquisite little restaurants with beautiful gardens.

...like this

...and this.

Next, we went to another temple (yes there are lots of them in Kyoto!) called Kodai-ji. This had the most beautiful gardens, which were apparently designed by a famous garden designer in 1605.

...they rake the stones in beautiful shapes and mounds - and leave no footprints - we looked hard!

There is a big Buddha in the background

...here's more raking!

Isn't that just breathtakingly beautiful.

Within the grounds was a bamboo forest - I'd not seen one before, so wanted a picture!

Next, we went to Chion-in - with a huge temple gate - the largest temple gate in Japan. You can just see Ross standing under the gate in the middle

The temple is the HQ of the Jodo school of Buddhism.

Here's the temple itself. We sat in and listened to some kind of ceremony for a while, which was interesting - lots of monks chanting, and banging drums and things, and lots of incense.

Here's the massive bell for the temple - it was cast in 1633 and weighs 74 tonnes - it's the largest in Japan and requires 17 monks to ring it - there was a big pole on the other side which you can't really see here.

Out side the next temple (which we didn't go in - getting a bit 'templed out' by this stage!) were these amazing Eucalyptus trees.

We then wondered down to the town, and stopped for a quick picnic by these big 'tori' (gates)

Here's the temple which lay at the other end. This one was really colourful - all red and green.

Next we caught the bus back to the station to pick up our bag, and wondered up to our hotel. Before booking in, we had a look at the Nishiki market...

The guide book describes the market as a 'welcome break from temples' it was interesting to wonder through and look at all the wierd food stuffs on offer!

At the end of the market was a little shrine (apparently there are over 8 million gods in Japan, so there's one for just about everything - this was possibly for the god of the market?)

Anyway, we noticed lots of men walking round in short white Kimono style tops and white sumo pants (always an interesting spectacle!), we left the market, and found the source of the men...

There was a festival (possibly the Gion festival) where there were hundreds of said men chanting and clapping, and generally having a ball, then the younger and fitter ones were carrying this enormous shrine thing on several telegraph pole sized handles

They were almost dancing with this thing, and at one stage they benchpressed it up onto their outstretched arms!

What you can't see from these photos is the amazing thunder and lightening which was ripping the sky into pieces. A few minutes later the heavens gave way, and the rain was torrential for about 15 mins - we got rather wet going to our hotel!

In the evening, we walked along this street called Ponto-cho which is a traditional night-life district. The restaurants on one side all face the river, and many have balconies over the water. It's supposed to be a place to go 'geisha-spotting' we did see a couple in the distance, but there are not so many geisha anymore.

We had to take a pic of this old guy on the most amazing trike - you can't see the lights very well, but this thing was neon heaven with a very smooth sounding stereo blasting out Frank Sinatra, or some other music-hall classic!

We skipped the fancy restuarants and sushi places, and instead went to a really cool Japanese student / backpackers bar off the beaten track (called teh A-bar) and drank plenty of Kirin beer and ate Yatitori (BBQ chicken kebabs) and nachos!

A most enjoyable day all round!